M/V Royal Sounder

Capt. Linda Lewis - www.privateboatinginstruction.com and Capt. David Parker
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21 – Glacier-Bay Glaciers: Margerie, Johns Hopkins, and Lamplugh (July 15, 2011-actual date at location)

Please note that the dates on some of the coming installments look like I’m duplicating myself. Not so. I realized that previous installments carried the date that I sent the emails, not the dates we were actually in those places. So I’m trying to correct myself.

We’re on our way again towards the three most beautiful glaciers in Glacier Bay National Park: Margerie, Lamplugh, and Johns Hopkins.

[Photographer credit: A number of the pictures in this installment were taken by Cassie Richards.]

When we were in Glacier Bay about two weeks ago, the Johns Hopkins Inlet was closed to boat traffic because the seal pups had not been weaned yet. Although I didn’t need to go to the ranger’s boater orientation again at Bartlett Cove, I did ask about the Hopkins Inlet when we announced our presence at the park border. It was a disappointment to learn that it was still closed.

However! When we were close by Hopkins I noticed a charter vessel go part of the way into the inlet so I decided to do the same. I had already drawn in the boundary line beyond which we could not go so I knew exactly where we needed to stop. I’m so glad we went that far. We didn’t see any seals; not even any on the bergy bits that were floating by. However, to my surprise, we could see the entire inlet from that stopping point.

I have finally seen the Johns Hopkins Glacier. It was spectacular.

But first, some of the beauty on our way there.

We were noticing a lot more ice in the water on this trip up to the end of Glacier Bay. It is a Spring Tide (high tides are higher; low tides are lower), so we figured a lot of glacier ice had been picked up on the high tide and was now being washed down-bay with the ebbing current.

We have learned that wearing polarized sunglasses makes it easier to see the bergy bits (even when it’s not sunny). They are especially helpful for seeing those small, clear pieces. We got that tip from a sidebar in the Douglass “Exploring Southeast Alaska” book. The sidebar is titled: ‘Glacier Ice Cruising – Keeping it Safe and Enjoyable,” written by Capt. Richard Friedman.
Cassie and Melissa were getting excited as the beautiful Margerie Glacier came into view.

The bergy bits also seemed to be less of a problem as we got closer. Cameras in hand, they’re ready! I’m pretty happy watching their faces.
The face of the Grand Pacific glacier is dark because it is picking up rocks and dirt as it recedes.
But the river of ice behind it is still pretty magical.
We left the Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers behind as we made our way towards the Lamplugh Glacier.
Taking a cue from one of the charter boats, we decided to first go down the Johns Hopkins Inlet as far as the boundary line. We wondered what we would see.

This glorious sight of the Johns Hopkins Inlet came into view.

Getting to see this inlet was a first for me. Even though we could only see it from a distance, it was a great view. The zoom lens helps a lot in my effort to share this special place with you.
The scenery on the way out was wonderful too. I really like this valley.
Lots of waterfalls…

And interesting bergy bits. The glacial ‘flour’ in the water makes it very green and very opaque. The water is almost as green as The Green Devil.
Next was a quick re-visit of the Lamplugh Glacier. And then we were on our way back ‘down-bay.’
Look at that color on the hillside. Wait a minute! It’s people! They had what looked like camera equipment on a tripod. Or maybe survey equipment?

They also had a small boat anchored out a ways and stern-tied to shore.
It’s always fun to look for sculptures in the ice.
We had a relaxing ride to our anchorage. And a quiet moment of fishing once we were anchored in beautiful Blue Mouse Cove.
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